Today I want to talk about an easy and simple method to work the classic 1x1 ribbed tubular cast-on, that uses a simple rectangle as a base, knitted out of waste yarn. 

I have posted a video that shows how it is done, but if you like to find out more about the technique and why some things are worked a specific way, then this blog post might be for you.
Of course you can skip directly to the video in the centre of this page, if you are not interested in the (k)nitty-gritty details!
​
So what is so special about the tubular cast-on? It gives a professional, finished look that resembles ready-to-wear machine knitting: Knits and purls flow seamlessly around the edge of the knitting and have the same amount of stretch as the ribbing itself. This is why it has quite a lot of elasticity and is one of the more flexible cast-ons. It can be worked flat or in the round (the latter being the version this blog post is dedicated to).
One can use it in any project for a neat, elegant and stretchy edge: In clothing - on any neckline, cuff or hem - but also in many accessories worked in the round, like hats or mittens.

There are many different ways to work this beautiful cast-on, but I wanted to showcase this specific one, since I do prefer the waste-yarn technique for three reasons:
FIRSTLY: No special knowledge is needed for this technique: You just need to know how to knit and purl - there are no specific finicky cast-on movements involved and one doesn't need to get back to the video instructions every time to do it. In my eyes it's a true no-fuss method!
SECONDLY: The stitches don't get distorted, to make knitting the first row or joining in the round problematic later on. Since there is a good chunk of the worked cast-on already on the needles, this method makes it much easier to join in the round without twisting your stitches around the cables. An especially useful feature, if you have many stitches to cast-on: When starting a sweater or a hat in fingering yarn.
THIRDLY: I prefer to work some rows in waste-yarn to produce a good sized rectangle instead of using just a crochet cast on (as is done in other waste-yarn methods), because it allows to easily see the stitches to work into (and without having to put them on a needle before) + it keeps them in a good and even tension, since they are nestled in all this stocking stitch fabric. One has something to comfortably hold onto while working (which - again - is especially nice when working many stitches) and the working yarn stitches are kept nicely in shape until the end.

Now that you have found the perfect waste yarn, you start by casting-on half the amount of the needed stitches for the project + 1 stitch. (For this you can use any cast-on you like and feel comfortable with. It really doesn't matter). Usually patterns will give you an even number of stitches for a 1x1 ribbing worked in the round. So we shall cast-on half of this instructed number  + 1 extra stitch.

We then work even in simple stocking stitch in the waste yarn. The main idea is to have enough rows to hold onto while working the actual cast-on, without distorting the working yarn stitches, and to end this section on a RS. (I worked around 4-5 rows, judging by the video).
Then take the working yarn and start on a WS to work 4 rows, since we have to end the working yarn section on a RS (we need to be able to work the tubular cast-on on the WS, to fold over the purl stitches by connecting the top to the bottom stitches). This will all make more sense when you watch the video:

- The idea here in this variation is to use a knitted rectangle in waste yarn to serve as a base for working another rectangle over 4 rows in our main project yarn.
- Because the stitches are worked from both sides of the working yarn section, we effectively double the amount of our end stitches in the tubular cast-on. This is why we start with only half the amount of the needed stitches of any given pattern. ​
- We add the + 1 extra stitch at the beginning to anchor the final purl bump stitch and keep the ribbing neat and straight (it will be worked together with the last purl bump in psso fashion, so we decrease it at the very end and are left with the correct amount of stitches).

​Since we start our actual CO with 4 rows already worked and we double the amount of stitches in the same area, we end up with more volume and a very elastic edge with lots of stretch.

The final stitch position might seem a bit confusing in this technique, but it's really not too complicated, if one understands why they end up where they do when changing to knitting in the round.
Because they are doubly opposite in terms of both back to front and left to right, our round will end up starting with the same kind of stitch that we used when beginning the tubular cast-on..
(You can see in the video, that I started with a purl stitch on the backside (WS) - and that would be a knit stitch on the visible side (RS) - but because it ends up being my last stitch and I work a 1x1 ribbing in the round with a knit stitch at the very end of the tubular CO row - I end up with a purl stitch again as my first stitch!
Complicated? Don't worry...
...the only important thing to remember is this: If you start with a purl in this tubular cast-on technique, you will have a purl at the start of the rnd after finishing.

--- BUT WHAT IF YOU REALLY NEED TO START WITH A KNIT STITCH?
The simplest way to change your very first stitch to a knit stitch, is to just place your marker one stitch next to the actual start of round after having joined and worked one round of 1x1 ribbing. This one stitch jump will not show in the final project and is a much simpler solution than to try to calculate how to reverse all the stitches in the video. 

You could of course work the sequence of knit and purl in reverse (first k one stitch out of the purl bumps and then purl the first live stitch) and then end with a slipped purl stitch and a purl worked out of the bump - but if you just want to follow the sequence shown in the video, the quick and easy way to change it up is to just skip one stitch when finally placing the marker.
...and you are good to go!

Tipp: For a flat tubular CO version in this technique you would like to mirror both edges - so you should end the row in a similar stitch as the one you started it (+ with added selvedge stitches at the start and at the end). So for a 1x1 ribbing you would need an odd number of stitches, to finish the row with the same stitch as the one you started.

In believe that the only downside in comparison to other techniques is, that you need some extra waste yarn to do it, the time to knit 4-5 rows with it and to separate it at the end. I found that I like it better for larger projects and ones in fingering yarn, but you can check out for yourself if you prefer another method to the one discussed here…
There are many other tubular cast-on styles out there and a nice blog post, that showcases them is this one here from Ysolda, where many different versions are explained in minute detail.
​

Please note that none of the above third party links are affiliate links and that La Maison Rililie Designs is not having any financial gain on any of them.

For my upcoming pattern (one that shall be published in the next week) I needed a different approach to work the renown i-cord bind off, the professional looking edging we already cherish and love...

I wanted something, that allowed this very neat border to flow discreetly in and out of the fabric, whenever I should choose for it to do so.... this means that I wanted to allow the cord to get to its full volume and shape after having worked some rows of it and not right from the very beginning (as is the case when we immediately cast on the 3 needed stitches for it) and also to subdue softly at the end of it's cording existence.

Whenever the i-cord bind off is not worked in a complete and eternal, grafted circle, it starts and ends abruptly with a thick wulst when constructed in the common way. In these sad cases one often tries to hide it's bulk by sewing parts of it into place and pulling some sections out of the way while doing all kinds of stuff that are never really too efficient in hiding all of it's hideousness!

So!
Fast forward to today...
In the case that you are one of my fellow knitters that had similar unfortunate i-cord experiences before when finishing your (otherwise) hand-knitted masterpiece, you might be happy to try out this tutorial I just uploaded.

Hopefully my suggestion for a softly starting and discreetly ending i-cord bind off can help you keep those edges of your very own masterpiece as neat as possible!
​
Click on this link, to checkthe revisited i-cord BO photo-tutorial out. 

What is an i-cord loop, you ask?
It can be used for many things, but here I show it in the form of a hat finishing.
​One that is cute, easy to make and practical:

I don’t know about you, but I like for most of my hats to have some kind of a little something at the top: Some time ago I liked pompoms more than anything (and I still do), but they were always so cumbersome and long to make and I often didn’t have enough of the suitable yarn to make a good sized, fluffy pompom!

And this one has become my favourite finishing now. What I like most about it is it's practical aspect: One can hang it on any kind of peg and keep the hats out of the way and organised without folding them! 
​(I first used this finishing on my Casazul hats, that are seen hanging below)

The i-cord construction is truly quick and easy to make and it uses very little yarn...
In the Casazul pattern I had added a photo-tutorial to showcase the construction of the i-cord loop, but I thought that for my newest pattern a video would be in order, to really showcase the construction of this loop in an easy to follow manner, so as to enable everybody to try the tiny little loop out to finish their hats!
(Of course this exact same method can be used for any kind of knitted loop that you might need, in any size and form --- for any project!)

After having used this wonderful method of adding horizontal pockets to my latest knitted jumper, I thought that a quick walk-through of the needed steps - together with some pictures - might be of interest to some of you.
​Not everybody has yet tried this easy peasy way of adding pockets in knitted garments.

The idea is to have the pockets arranged at a flattering position, depending on the style one wants to achieve. If they are going to be functional and not simply decorative, they have to be at a comfortable height to put one's hand inside (preferably without resorting to acrobatic movements).
​At the same time they need to be wide enough to comfortably fit the wearer's hand as also deep enough to fulfil their purpose.
But careful: We do not want the lining to be peeking below the hem when we use them! We all know how much give in length a knitted fabric can have and pockets can "grow" to nearly double their length when lounging hands are pushing downwards.

That's actually all there is for the pocket placement itself!
​After finishing the rest of the garment, we can go back and work on the lining of the pocket:

For a seamless lining we need to pick up the stitches worked in our original yarn, on top and below the waste yarn row with the right side facing us. I am using circular needles here because it is easy to simply pick up the same amount of stitches at both sides of the opening: One needle tip sits at the row above and one at the row below. 
​Be careful to not twist the stitches and do try to always pick the right "leg" of each stitch.

Then just remove the waste yarn and pull the right needle tip out enough to start working the thus exposed stitches of the lining in the round in the magic loop style (or simply change to a shorter circular needle or DPN). The needle size should be the same as the one we used for the project itself.

Close up the lining-tube by following the linked tutorial on the 3-Needle BO: It is perfect for this job, because it provides a good looking, sturdy seam that has the same elasticity as the knitted lining itself and is worked quickly during the binding off process!

Before you ask:: The jumper shown here is a new pattern called La GeKka (worked in Magasin Duett yarn Blues) and to be launched on the 25th of August 2018..... 

*¹Footnote: A true after-thought method would be to just cut into the middle of any row and carefully unravel to both ends of the pocket (after having picked up the stitches above and below of course). But for the sake of the article let us stick to the "official" and non-pirate version of doing things!

I know I know...
It seems as if I have been in a sock knitting frenzy lately - but my sock ramblings shall be kept in check for the next year (here you have quite the original New-Year resolution)!

But I really had to post this follow-up article on my latest one,  the free SpiralSock Pattern!

My good friend and tech-editor Kate, actually made a great suggestion after she checked the first version of the pattern ( the one published this Christmas). There was not time to rewrite the pattern back then, but I really wanted you guys to know about Kate's great idea!

(Quick disclaimer:... It seems that her idea is a known adaption to heel-less sock patterns, but we both didn't know about it and re-discovered what others will most probably already know for decades!)
Anyway, since I know that there must be other sock-ignorant people out there like me, who are very entertained by this kind of knitting-technology, I still thought that this follow up post and addition to the pattern itself, might interest some of you.

So, well... Kate's new and improved method was to work a Star-Toe (or also a round toe) with the SpiralSock, so that it can be worn without having to adjust the toe in any way, since there is no need for any adjustment in any direction because there simply isn't any - the star toe is the same on all sides, as is the tube for the heel-less sock!
With this toe, one would be able to keep the heel part of the sock even longer in shape, since it never will be put on in the exact same way and therefore the whole area will be worn out over a longer period of time.
Cool, isn't it?

So I played around with a star-toe with a progressive ratio of increase and even rounds and of course I have updated the sock pdf and now there are both toe variations in there for you to choose!

To work this star toe though, we need to cast on our stitches in a circle and there are many ways to work the same circular cast on techniques: One is the crochet technique, which uses (as you have already guessed) the extra tool of a crochet... not a problem in itself, if you can be bothered with looking for it in your messy studio (not that I speak out of experience here....)
Or then there is the excellent "disappearing loop method" by the famous techknitter, whom I consider my biggest teacher and mentor, that also uses knitting needles only and is using a similar technique as for the tubular or invisible cast-on.
 
But I do prefer the one I am showcasing below, since it not only has the advantages that no extra tools are needed (and the messy studio can be sufficiently ignored) - but it also does immediately provide the knitter with two casted on rows. Therefore there is an actual "lower row" stitch to work into right away - a feature, which is especially handy for hidden increases in the very first round after casting on.
(Here I like the hidden increases because they provide a discreet way to work immediate repeat augmentations - on every stitch and/or directly on top of each other on subsequent rounds, as we are doing here to provide a less pointy toe)

On another note: I wonder, do you guys prefer my printable photo-tutorials (which I find are easy to reference later on or to file) or do you like videos better?
Is there one medium you strongly prefer over the other, or does it all depend on the technique itself (like in this case, where the tutorial is easier to understand when actually seeing the movement)?
Please do tell me and I will try my best to adapt to what you guys like most!
oh...
​...and have a wonderful and strong New Year! ✨⭐️

Allow me to describe my though-process and incentives about this pattern in this lengthy post:
I was searching for this perfect but elusive accessory for years!
It must have been right after I learned knitting socks, when I whipped up my first typical run-of-the-mill shorty. I was and remained disappointed while periodically continuing with experiments to knit a sock with a low top section, that not only would hide perfectly in my shoes, but also remain put and make for an elegant and flattering footwear, if I'd needed to take my shoes off while visiting friends. (I don't know about you, but I did find that all those other short socks with the horizontal "cut" across the ankle were not the best option for a long-leg-and-slim-ankle look).

Only after many trial socks later, I finally had found a way to produce a low top sock with my favourite kind of heel (a gusseted short-row one). This sock was constructed with a new kind of decrease - especially developed for this pattern, because I didn't like the look of the gusset stitches after turning the heel. I therefore tried to produce sturdy and symmetrical decreases that still had some "plush" feel and style at the gusset-heel edges.

But all of these ideas and new systems, as also the extensive (ab)use of german short-rows in the pattern made me insecure and afraid that people would hate my construction and find it much too cumbersome for such a tiny sock! So I did hold off with publishing it for quite some time and only after getting wonderful feedback from my talented testers I felt brave enough to make this strange little sock pattern public. I was immediately blown away by the amazing response and my fears were completely quelled! I even noticed that many of the other knitters out there shared many of my own quirks and slightly neurotic "preferences" in relation to short socks.... who knew!

No recommended yarn was used for this pattern either, although there were many options of beautiful sock yarn for me to choose from!
The reason was simply that I wanted to showcase that this pattern lends itself wonderfully to use up any of the accumulating bits and pieces, that seem to take up our yarn stash. Small lenghts of yarn, which we don't want to through away but still don't know how to use up!.
It's quite easy to use yarn rests of similar weight here: First find the colours you'd like to combine and then just weigh the yarn rests. Work half or less for one sock and you'll have enough for the second sock!

Finally the last technique that provides a good fit to this special little sock is the customisable cast off, which securely hugs the backside of the ankle while giving a looser fit at the instep section, which needs to be more elastic.

As you can see from the pictures, I have already knitted up quite a variety of those socks - and I have only worn this kind during all of last winter! Standing next to all the youngsters on snowy pavements, wearing sneakers and even short booties - I too, kept my ankles fashionably naked!

You can find the pattern either on ravelry or here on my site
(on ravelry you can even check out many of the wonderful socks that have been already knitted up by knitters all over the world)

After having gifted a very special hand-knitted item to a beloved receiver, the most dreaded thing for a knitter to hear, is: "Oh... it's so cute, I love it - but I have to admit that I never wear it because it really doesn't fit / is too big / much too long / not really my size...! Well, thanks anyway"
- I had the pleasure to hear something similar after asking my mother if she wears the ShellSock in yellow I gifted her about a year ago. I made her this pair because she liked the ones I did for myself (based onthis free pattern here), but I never saw her wearing the socks, when I visited.
So... after wondering why she didn't tell me sooner and without me asking about them, I immediately started "The Operation ShortSock".
It's nothing groundbreaking in terms of newness or innovation. No, it's simply a cut-and-graft shortening of the sock's foot-tube. But since many knitters seem to be afraid of such "invasive treatments" and since I thankfully remembered to take pictures during "surgery" (a rarity in my case), I thought that I might show you the complete procedure below - step by step - and maybe it will seem less daunting to some! It's the idea of cutting that frightens more than the act itself, believe me.
​
So - first of all we had to do an evaluation-field trip: Mum tried on the sock and we established how much exactly we would need to shorten it, so that it'll fit comfortably.
​Try to keep in mind here that the fabric is elastic and that it will stretch a bit, but avoid to take out too much and make a sock that will be too snug and tight. Just fold over a section, try it out and mark the extent that needs to go.

Then I cut into one stitch of said contrast round in white (the first round of the section we intend to remove right above the needle of the toe area) and proceeded to take the whole round out stitch by stitch until the toe was separated completely from the rest of the sock.
You can click on the pictures to see a bigger version of them, if you like.

Then I found the tail of the grey main colour and just unraveled it until I got bored... and grabbed the cute little scissors I have from fringesupplyco to quickly cut all the excess away - without of course hurting any of the stitches already positioned on the needle - or myself - or others... 

Then the fun part began: The actual grafting and re-connecting of the toe to the foot! If you are one of those knitters that fear this step, rest assured that it is not at all hard to do. You just need to take your time and keep an eye on your tension, while following a good tutorial, if you don't already know the grafting mantra "knit, slip, purl... purl, slip, knit" by heart.

After neatly hiding all tails and such, the old-new shortened sock was ready to be worn for the first time and it successfully had been saved from a dark and boring life in the sock-drawer!
Both me and my favourite knit-recipient were quite glad about it...
You are welcome, mum! 

Probably the number one question that knitters ask me, is how to tighten up the last double-stitch when working German-Short-Rows in the round. This final turning point from the last short row - the last double-stitch to be worked when starting knitting in the round again - is slightly turned to the other side and ends up big and funny looking when it's knit as usual.

Insert the right needle (or an extra DPN needle if it's easier to handle) into the right leg of the stitch, that is positioned 2 rows below the first stitch on the left needle (as shown above)...

Work like this towards the left, stitch for stitch and carefully move the extra yarn from one stitch to the other and let the yarn travel to the side in this way. The idea here is to try to pull out a tiny bit less excess while working each stitch, so that your pulled-out loop gets smaller each time because every stitch "absorbs" a small fraction of the excess until it is all gone. You don't want to end up with all the length on the left side of your double-stitch and just transport the huge stitch itself from one side to the other. 
What you need is to have this extra loop of yarn distributed all over the 3-5 stitches towards the left, or until it isn't visible anymore (it doesn't need to look perfect at this stage).

On the picture on the right, where I have continued knitting about 4 stitches more, you can see clearly that the big double-stitch has been transformed into a normal sized stitch, while the extra length of yarn has been "incorporated" into the smaller stitches to the left, making those stitches larger in size and the difference between all of them less pronounced.

There are other methods where you are working this last short row stitch differently as the others before, to "make it behave" (sometimes by knitting each leg of the ds together with other stitches, for example).
I am personally not a big fan of this idea - even if it might be quicker to work.  It can distort the stitch more if not done right, make the fabric pull in at that point instead of letting the natural flow of the stitches open up during blocking, leave the smaller stitches in their tiny misery or add bulk to a section where we want to keep things nice and flat.

2. Eliminating larger stitches, even after having completed the project:
Good news is that you can manually repair the tension to get rid of all big, distorted stitches in your knitting - not only the short row double stitches discussed here - but also when you have strange laddering going on in magic loop knitting, strange holes near the underarm cast-on in top down knitting or the occasional giant stitch making an appearance.
If you already have finished and blocked your project and you still want to get rid of any stitch that looks too big, or if you still find that the above tip didn't yield a perfect result, even after blocking, this "Post-Production" process will surely be of interest:

You will need a smaller sized needle, good lighting and some patience to make this work:

I find that we knitters sometimes forget that we are just working with sticks and a long length of string, which makes up a fabric of interlocked loops. A fabric that one can influence at any given time by shifting the amount of length in the finished surface - during but also after knitting.
This fact actually opened up a whole new way of thinking to me; on how to handle my knitted fabric and to understand a lot of things about the flow of the stitches in knitting.

As I said the logic behind all of this is really simple - too simple maybe and not at all dramatic - but it does the trick every time: With just a little patience and an even tension, all "non-conform" stitches, ugly double-stitches or other unwanted distortions in our knitting can be successfully remedied and persuaded into shape.

I am sure that this isn't the only way to eliminate this kind of problematic stitches - it is the way I prefer for years now and I am very happy with it because it allows me the freedom to repair any unevenness that might have escaped me during knitting.
But maybe you have another method that works better for you?

... our crafts-teacher showed us a very cool and simple method for a looser long-tail cast on. 
It allows you to work the first row easily without fighting to insert your needle in some tightly wound CO stitches .
I just remembered this recently (together with some other not-so-useful school memories) and thought that maybe not everybody is familiar with this easy trick to achieve a friendly start to their knitting. So I thought I'll share this "fond memory" especially for the ones that love the look of the long-tail cast on, but never get it to be elastic enough...

And there you go: The needle that is left inside your knitting is now holding a nice set of loose stitches - that are big, open and stretchy and ready to be worked into.

Apropos circulars: 
If you use long circulars for a smaller project you can "fold" them in half and use the two needle tips as the straight pair above. Just make sure that you don't loose the stitches when you try to get the one needle-tip out of them by pulling on the cord end... for larger projects this might get very fiddly!
You theoretically need a cord that is a little longer than double the length of the casted on stitches to accommodate them when folded in half, so this is why an extra pair of circular needles in the same needle-size would probably be a better idea for a larger project (and much easier to pull out of the CO after it's done).  

This Twin-Needle system is producing a kind of an elongated, oval needle tip and not a round one - so your loop is long while the stitch underneath rests still neat and less bulky  - that's really a detail though and probably too much of information.

In Pictures:

This little post might be helpful if you need to work increases on the sides of an existing textured piece, a patterned shawl or any other project that wants to grow at the sides outwards  and you don’t know how to continue working your stitch pattern or chart when adding new stitches to each side of your work.
It might get especially difficult to work armhole increases in a top-down textured sweater that needs you to follow a chart with pattern repeats and extra stitches and edge stitches (as often encountered in flat knitted patterns).
Does this description already induce a headache? 
Well, lets say that you might encounter the following issues:

• How to continue working a given pattern or chart, while adding new stitches to each side and not loose the overview of your stitch pattern? 
• What shall one do with all these new stitches and how can those be integrated in the motif?

The whole process becomes quite easy if you visually separate your newly increased stitches with the help of removable markers until you can safely integrate them into your existing pattern repeat!
The idea is to use markers to separate the complete chart you have been following before (not only the pattern repeat itself, but the whole thing) from those increases that are worked gradually and over quite some rows, so that you can continue following the chart instructions without worrying about how to start each row, since you are increasing the needed amount of stitches on the outside of your chart.

So now you might wonder why in this first increase row the M1L and M1R increases are placed at the “inside” of the markers and not at the outside: It is so that those newly increased stitches can safely replace the edge stitches of the chart.
This allows you to just follow your chart as a whole and as written in between the two markers and to increase at the outer edges of the markers on the following rows: 

Like this you can actually see how many new stitches have been added at the beginning and the end, next to the markers. These increased stitches are worked in Stocking stitch until a whole pattern repeat is added at each side (in the pictures it’s a 4 sts repeat), which we can then safely integrate into our existing textured pattern and start again with the next set of increases, where the markers are placed once again as in step 1-4. 

So the whole idea is that with the help of the markers you don't bother about the increased stitches until you can add those to your growing textured section. The markers also help you to work the chart normally during the increase section (since they show you where to start and end the complete chart), so you don’t need to "read your knitting" at all and to guess which stitch goes on top of the other, if you aren’t comfortable in doing so.

While working the increased stitches next to the markers in Stocking stitch you get a wide and clean band on the sides of your work, as you can see in picture 6. If your pattern repeat is much more than 4 sts wide though, you might want to start getting comfortable with "reading your knitting" after all, so that you learn to immediately integrate the new stitches in your stitch pattern and don’t need to wait until you have enough new stitches to work with.

But that’s totally up to you, to work it as you like and feel comfortable with.